‘In search of Sher Khan’

On the outskirts of the small town of Sawai Madhopur, lying in the shadow of an imposing hilltop fortress, sits one of India’s most famous national parks. Declared a Project Tiger reserve in 1973, Ranthambore National Park is today widely considered one of the best places in the country to see the majestic tiger in the wild. So, it was with some excitement, that we left our tented camp in the chill light of early morning to make the short journey to the park entrance. Only Lydia seemed a little unsure if she actually wanted to see a tiger up close and personal and, in light of what happened later, when she came face to face with a group of overzealous Rufous Treepies, I’m not surprised. 

The park itself covers nearly 400 square kilometres and was once the preserve of the ruling princes of Jaipur, who used it to hunt prey amongst the forested foothills of the Aravali and Vindhyan ranges. Today it is home to a rich diversity of animal and birdlife including wild boar, mugger crocodiles, nilgai, sloth bear and leopard and, although the tigers were proving elusive, as we drove along the rutted tracks that dissected the park, we came across herds of sambar deer grazing beside the glittering waters of a lake where crocodiles basked in the morning sunshine. We could also hear monkeys calling out warnings amongst the trees, indicating that a tiger was indeed hunting somewhere close by. All was going so well...and then the Treepies came! 

Rufous Treepies are members of the crow family, rather dapper members as it happens, with cinnamon coloured bodies and bluish grey tails. They are also incredibly intelligent and have obviously worked out over the years that tourists mean food! As we sat beside a small watering hole, taking in the tranquility of our surroundings, one came a sat on the roll bar behind the girls. This was obviously a ruse. Whilst our attentions were diverted two more came and sat on the edge of the open topped jeep’s windscreen, whilst another took up position on the wing mirror. In a scene reminiscent of Hitchcock’s ‘The Birds’, these canny creatures then pounced. The one at the back jumped onto Lydia’s head and sat there in resigned indifference as she screamed blue murder. Two more then made a beeline for Denise as she rolled helplessly about the back seat, convulsed in fits of laughter. 

Another ambush! There seemed to be a pattern forming here. First Delhi, then Agra, now Ranthambore...even the birds were getting in on the act! Maybe that’s what the monkeys had been trying to warn us about...