Raileys, slingshots and back loops; life amongst the kitesurfers of Ellan Vannin
Jumping out of the van and climbing onto the top of a natural stone embankment, Dave gazed down across the sands towards the lone figure out on the water. The sun had already begun its lazy journey towards the distant horizon and Castletown was bathed in the rich hues of late afternoon. Little did Dave know it, but his life was about to change. As he watched, the surfer out on the water began to turn towards him, framed against the orange glow of the setting sun. Above him a huge red kite, emblazoned with the word griffin, caught the sunlight. This was Dave’s first introduction to kitesurfing and it was love at first sight.
Still in its infancy, the sport of kitesurfing hit the adrenalin junkie scene back in the late 1990s. Described as the ultimate hybrid watersport, it is a combination of surfing, snowboarding and flying, with the kite propelling you through the water at exhilarating speeds and providing the necessary lift to perform some breathtaking stunts. At the back end of the last century there were no more than a few dozen kitesurfers worldwide, but today those numbers measure in the hundreds of thousands. Part of its big appeal lies in its ability to satisfy so many different criteria, as Dave explains. “I’ve always loved surfing and wakeboarding, but this guy was flying as well! This was a sport that fused the best of both, yet retained its own unique identity. I skateboarded a little when I was younger, but I had never felt that it was right for me. Could this be what I was looking for? I could surf a wave, ride back and surf the same break, again and again. I could jump 30 foot high! I had to get into this sport. I needed it in my life!”
Back in the real world Dave works for a double glazing firm on the island, where his fitting partner Nige and his manager Ian have both long been vociferous advocates of kitesurfing. After his introduction to the sport in Castletown, Dave was keen to continue his education, and Nige and Ian both seemed more than happy for him to tag along. Which is why he found himself heading up to Ballaugh on a cold autumn day some weeks later, to a spot that he was reliably informed would be ‘perfect nine metre weather’. Hideously underdressed, in a pair of board shorts and a less than flattering hoodie, Dave watched the guys performing, taking shot after shot with his camera as they mastered back loops and boosts out on the grey, foaming water. Dave was itching to get out there and join them, but Ballaugh is not the place to cut your teeth. Within the protection of the lagoon it can be a beautiful place to surf, but out on the open water the sea can hit you with all the fury it can muster and winds topping 25 knots can punish you big time.
It was actually back in Castletown, where he had first been introduced to the sport, that Dave finally got to indulge his new found addiction. It took him most of that winter and cost him some big slams, but eventually he mastered the board and the waves. Castletown is the most widely used stretch of beach on the island for kitesurfing. The prevailing southwesterlies and the geography of the surrounding coastline keeps the wave heights down in the centre of the bay and generally ensures a smooth wind. Usually its beautifully sandy too and on an incoming tide the place is just a dream to surf. The problem here though can be launching and landing, and not just on the high tide. The beach lies at the end of the island’s main runway and coming face to face with the undercarriage of an incoming flight from Liverpool can certainly get the adrenalin going. As Dave has discovered over the years, you learn fast how to keep your kite low when there’s a ‘bird in the air’!
Over the past three years Dave has learned a lot from photographing the local kiters on the island. A small community within a community, they are always keen to pass on tips and advice to other willing surfers and he appreciates the open friendliness and the social interaction too. There is never any hint of snobbery or cliques amongst the group and it seems that even the wives and girlfriends have accepted their addiction with good grace. Dave’s long suffering wife Katie is patiently tolerant of his excitable fidgeting whenever the winds pick up, and listens with equal understanding to his constant outbursts about raileys and flat 3s, even though she usually has no idea what he is talking about!
For such a small island the Isle of Man has a staggeringly rich vein of potential surf sites. As well as Castletown and Ballaugh, there is also Derbyhaven, which provides smooth, flat water and over a quarter of a mile of safe practice water on a low tide. No more than a metre in depth, it is great for trying out new tricks or perfecting old ones. The big thrill here apparently, especially for the freestyle fans, is at high tide. Derbyhaven comprises a sandy bar and a harbour that is protected by a water locked pier, which means at high tide it is pan flat, but at the harbour entrance, the tight rolling surf hitting the flat water produces a fantastic transition point which provides some perfect natural kickers. Indeed the island’s very size is its strength in many ways, because no matter which way the wind is blowing, there is always more than one spot to surf and its never more than about half an hour away, with Port Erin, Peel, Gansey and Laxey all providing equally exhilarating venues if tides and winds are fortuitous.
For those looking to get in to this relatively new and exciting sport, the Isle of Man truly is a hidden gem that will, in Dave’s opinion, prove something of an undiscovered little gold mine for kite enthusiasts in the future.
So, if you fancy trying something a bit different this summer, how about joining Dave and co and taking on the waters, and skies, around Ellan Vannin.
For more information, check out the Isle of Man Kitesurfing page on Facebook.
© Trevor Gibbs 2011
